Why Do Some Brands Fit Smaller or Larger?
When it comes to clothing, one of the most frustrating experiences for shoppers—whether in-store or online—is the inconsistency in sizing across different brands. It’s not uncommon for someone to wear a size medium in one brand but a large in another. This phenomenon raises an important question: Why do some brands fit smaller or larger than others? The answer lies in a combination of factors including brand-specific sizing standards, manufacturing processes, target demographics, and even psychological marketing strategies.
1. The Absence of Universal Sizing Standards
One of the primary reasons for size inconsistency is the lack of a universal sizing standard in the fashion industry. Unlike industries such as electronics or automotive, where measurements are highly standardized, clothing sizes are largely self-regulated by individual brands. While some countries have attempted to implement standardized sizing systems—such as the European Union’s EN 13402 standard or the U.S. ASTM D5511 sizing chart—these are not mandatory. As a result, each brand is free to define what a size small, medium, or large means within its own product line.
This lack of uniformity means that a size 10 in one brand may be equivalent to a size 12 or even 8 in another. This is particularly noticeable in jeans, where waist and inseam measurements can vary significantly across brands. For example, Levi’s, Guess, and True Religion are known for running smaller, while brands like Gap or Old Navy often have a more generous cut.
2. Brand Identity and Target Market
Each brand has a unique identity, and part of that identity includes how the clothing fits on the body. Some brands design clothes to fit more snugly to create a tailored, flattering silhouette, while others may offer a looser, more relaxed fit. These design choices are often influenced by the brand’s target demographic.
For instance, brands that cater to a younger, fashion-forward audience may opt for a slim or skinny fit, which naturally requires smaller measurements. On the other hand, brands targeting a more mature or comfort-oriented audience may design clothes with a roomier fit. This is why you might find that you wear a larger size in a casual wear brand like American Eagle than in a more form-fitting brand like Abercrombie & Fitch—even though both target similar age groups.
Additionally, luxury brands often have a different approach to sizing. High-end fashion houses like Gucci, Prada, or Saint Laurent typically follow European sizing, which tends to run smaller than U.S. or U.K. sizes. This can be both a cultural and a design choice, as European fashion often emphasizes a more fitted, streamlined look.
3. The “ Vanity Sizing“ Phenomenon
Another significant factor contributing to size variation is a practice known as vanity sizing. This refers to the trend of labeling clothing with smaller sizes than the actual measurements suggest, in order to make consumers feel better about their size. Over the past few decades, clothing sizes have generally trended smaller, even as average body sizes have increased.
For example, a dress labeled as a size 8 today may have the same measurements as a size 12 or even 14 from 30 years ago. Retailers use this tactic to appeal to consumers’ emotional needs—people often feel more confident wearing a smaller size, even if it doesn’t reflect their true body measurements. This can lead to confusion and inconsistency, especially when comparing sizes across decades or between brands.
Vanity sizing is particularly prevalent in fast fashion brands such as Forever 21, H&M, and Zara, which often label their clothing with smaller sizes to attract a wider audience. Conversely, some brands maintain more consistent or “honest” sizing, which can result in customers needing to purchase larger sizes than they’re used to.
4. Manufacturing and Sourcing Differences
Clothing is often manufactured in different countries, and variations in production standards can also affect sizing. A brand may design a garment in one country but produce it in another where labor and materials are cheaper. Differences in fabric composition, cutting techniques, and quality control can all influence how a garment fits.
For instance, cotton and stretch fabrics behave differently when cut and sewn. A pair of jeans made with a higher percentage of stretch may fit differently than one made with rigid denim, even if both are labeled the same size. Similarly, garments made in countries with less advanced manufacturing technology may have inconsistencies in seam allowances or stitching, which can subtly affect the overall fit.
Moreover, some brands use different factories for different regions. A shirt made for the U.S. market might be cut differently than the same shirt sold in Europe or Asia, based on regional body types and preferences.
5. Body Shape and Fit Models
Another often-overlooked factor is the use of fit models during the design process. Brands use fit models—individuals with specific body measurements—to test how clothing fits and drapes on the body. However, not all brands use the same fit model. Some may use models with a slimmer build, while others may use models with more curves or height.
If a brand’s fit model is petite, for example, the resulting garments may run small or short in length. If the model has a more athletic build, the clothing might be designed with broader shoulders or a longer torso. This directly impacts how the clothing fits different body types and contributes to the perception that some brands run small or large.
6. The Impact of Online Shopping and Returns
The rise of e-commerce has further complicated the issue of inconsistent sizing. Without the ability to try on clothes in person, consumers rely heavily on size charts and customer reviews. However, even with these tools, the lack of standardization makes it difficult to predict how a garment will fit.
Online brands often try to address this by offering detailed size guides or using AI-driven fit technology to recommend sizes based on past purchases or body measurements. However, the underlying issue of inconsistent brand sizing remains. This has led to high return rates in online fashion retail, with many customers ordering multiple sizes just to find the right fit.
Some brands have responded by adjusting their sizing based on return data. If a particular style has a high return rate due to fit issues, the brand may tweak the next production run to better align with customer expectations. This can lead to even more inconsistency over time, as a brand’s sizing may shift from season to season.
7. Cultural and Regional Influences
Different regions of the world have different body types and fashion preferences, which also play a role in sizing. For example, Asian countries tend to have smaller average body sizes compared to Western countries. As a result, clothing produced for markets in Japan or South Korea may have a smaller cut than the same brand’s clothing sold in the United States or Europe.
Brands that operate globally often adjust their sizing for different markets. This is why you might find that a size medium in the U.S. is labeled as a large in Japan, even though the actual measurements are nearly identical. These regional adaptations help brands cater to local preferences and improve customer satisfaction.
8. How Consumers Can Navigate Size Variations
Given the complexity of sizing differences, consumers can take several steps to improve their shopping experience:
Use Brand-Specific Size Charts: Most brands provide detailed size charts with measurements in inches or centimeters. Comparing these to your own body measurements can help you find the right size.
Read Customer Reviews: Reviews often include feedback about fit, such as whether a garment runs small or large. This can be especially helpful when shopping online.
Keep Track of What Fits: If you find a brand that fits you well, remember your size with that brand. This can serve as a reference when trying new brands or shopping online.
Try Before You Buy: When possible, try clothes on in-store before purchasing similar items online. This helps you understand how a brand’s sizing compares to others.
Conclusion
The inconsistency in clothing sizes across brands is a multifaceted issue rooted in the absence of global standards, brand-specific design choices, vanity sizing, manufacturing differences, and regional body type variations. While this can be frustrating for consumers, understanding these factors can help shoppers make more informed decisions and reduce the guesswork involved in finding the right fit.
As the fashion industry continues to evolve, there is growing discussion around the need for more standardized sizing systems and better transparency from brands. Until then, the key to successful shopping lies in understanding that size is just a number—and that the best fit is the one that makes you feel confident and comfortable, no matter what the label says.