What is the Controversy with Birkenstocks?
Birkenstock, a name synonymous with comfort and orthopedic footwear, has been a staple in the world of casual and health-focused footwear for over two centuries. Founded in Germany in the 18th century, the brand became known for its unique footbed design that supports the natural shape and movement of the foot. Over the years, Birkenstock has evolved from being a niche orthopedic shoe brand to a global fashion icon, often seen on celebrities and influencers. However, this rise to mainstream popularity has not come without controversy. In recent years, the brand has found itself at the center of debates around cultural appropriation, labor practices, environmental sustainability, and exclusivity in fashion. This article explores the various controversies surrounding Birkenstock and how they reflect broader societal issues in the fashion industry.
1. Cultural Appropriation and the “Birkenstock Look”
One of the most notable controversies surrounding Birkenstock is its association with cultural appropriation, particularly in the context of the “Birkenstock look” that became popular in the late 2010s and early 2020s. The controversy centers around the brand’s collaboration with designer Marc Jacobs in 2012, which featured Black models with cornrows, wearing Birkenstock-inspired sandals. While the collection was praised for its edgy aesthetic, it sparked a backlash when white models were later seen wearing similar styles in a 2017 campaign, leading to accusations of cultural appropriation.
The issue highlighted the broader pattern in the fashion industry where elements of Black culture — such as hairstyles like cornrows, which have historically been stigmatized — are co-opted by white celebrities and fashion houses without acknowledging their origins or giving credit to the communities from which they originated. Critics argued that while Black models were used to showcase the style initially, the subsequent adoption of the same look by white models was seen as trendy and fashionable, reinforcing systemic inequalities in the fashion world.
Birkenstock did not issue a formal apology for the incident, but the controversy prompted a wider conversation about race, representation, and authenticity in fashion. It also raised questions about how brands can responsibly engage with diverse cultural expressions without exploiting them.
2. Labor Practices and Ethical Production Concerns
Another significant controversy surrounding Birkenstock involves concerns about its labor practices and production ethics. As a brand that prides itself on craftsmanship and tradition, Birkenstock has long marketed its shoes as being made in Germany, emphasizing quality and heritage. However, in recent years, reports have surfaced about the use of overseas manufacturing facilities, particularly in countries like Portugal, Italy, and China, where labor standards may not be as stringent as in Germany.
Critics have raised concerns about the potential exploitation of workers in these facilities, including low wages, poor working conditions, and lack of labor rights. While Birkenstock has not been directly accused of major labor violations, the lack of transparency regarding its supply chain has fueled skepticism among consumers and watchdog organizations. In an era where ethical consumption is becoming increasingly important, brands are expected to be more forthcoming about where and how their products are made.
Birkenstock has taken steps to improve its corporate social responsibility (CSR) practices in recent years, including initiatives aimed at reducing environmental impact and improving working conditions. However, the brand still faces scrutiny from consumers who demand full transparency and accountability.
3. Environmental Sustainability and Greenwashing
The fashion industry is one of the largest contributors to global pollution and waste, and Birkenstock is not immune to criticism in this area. While the brand markets itself as using natural materials such as cork and leather, and emphasizes the durability and longevity of its products — which should, in theory, reduce waste — some environmental advocates have accused Birkenstock of greenwashing.
Greenwashing refers to the practice of exaggerating or falsely promoting the environmental benefits of a product to appear more eco-friendly than it actually is. For example, while Birkenstock’s use of natural materials is commendable, the company’s reliance on leather — a material with a significant environmental footprint due to deforestation, methane emissions, and water usage — has drawn criticism from environmental groups and vegan advocates.
Additionally, the carbon footprint of transporting Birkenstock shoes globally, from manufacturing facilities in Europe to retail locations around the world, has also come under scrutiny. While the brand has made commitments to reduce emissions and improve sustainability, some critics argue that more needs to be done to ensure that Birkenstock’s environmental claims are backed by concrete action.
4. Exclusivity and the Commercialization of Counterculture
Birkenstock’s journey from a niche orthopedic brand to a luxury fashion item has also sparked controversy. Once associated with hippies, hikers, and health enthusiasts, Birkenstock sandals were seen as anti-fashion — practical, comfortable, and affordable. However, in recent years, the brand has been rebranded as a high-fashion staple, often seen on runways and worn by celebrities.
This shift has led to accusations that Birkenstock has been co-opted by the very fashion industry it once stood apart from. Collaborations with high-end designers like Rick Owens and collaborations with luxury retailers like Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue have positioned Birkenstock as a status symbol rather than a utilitarian shoe. As a result, prices have risen dramatically, with some models now costing over $500.
This commercialization has alienated some of Birkenstock’s original customer base, who feel that the brand has abandoned its roots in favor of profit and prestige. Critics argue that by aligning with the luxury fashion world, Birkenstock has become complicit in the same consumerist culture it once resisted.
5. The Birkenstock Aesthetic and the “Ugly Shoe” Trend
The rise of the “ugly shoe” trend in fashion — characterized by clunky, oversized, and often unattractive footwear — has also brought Birkenstock into the spotlight. While the brand’s designs were once praised for their ergonomic and health benefits, they are now often worn more for their aesthetic than for their function.
This trend has led to debates about authenticity, fashion elitism, and the commodification of comfort. Some argue that wearing Birkenstocks purely for fashion undermines their original purpose as supportive, therapeutic footwear. Others see it as a sign of the brand’s cultural relevance and adaptability.
However, the trend has also led to the mass production of cheap imitations, further complicating Birkenstock’s brand identity. These knockoffs flood the market with lower-quality versions of the original, diluting the brand’s reputation and making it harder for consumers to distinguish between authentic and counterfeit products.
Conclusion: Birkenstock at a Crossroads
The controversies surrounding Birkenstock reflect broader tensions in the fashion industry — between authenticity and commercialization, inclusivity and appropriation, tradition and modernity, and sustainability and profit. As the brand continues to navigate these complex issues, it faces a critical challenge: how to maintain its heritage and values while adapting to the demands of a global, fast-paced, and often unforgiving market.
Birkenstock has the opportunity to lead by example — to embrace transparency, promote ethical labor practices, and champion environmental responsibility while remaining true to its roots. Whether it can successfully address these controversies will determine not only its future in the fashion world but also its legacy as a brand that once stood for comfort, health, and individuality.
In the end, the Birkenstock story is not just about shoes. It’s about the evolving relationship between fashion, culture, and ethics in the 21st century.