What Do They Call Sneakers Now? The Evolution of Footwear Terminology in Modern Culture
Sneakers, once a simple and functional item of footwear, have evolved dramatically over the past century. What began as rubber-soled shoes designed for sports and physical activity has transformed into a global cultural phenomenon, influencing fashion, music, art, and even economics. As this evolution has unfolded, so too has the language we use to describe these shoes. While “sneakers” remains the most commonly accepted term in the United States, modern culture has introduced a plethora of alternative names and slang that reflect the changing status and significance of this once humble footwear.
The Origins of the Term “Sneakers”
The term “sneakers” is believed to have originated in the late 1800s, with the first recorded use dating back to 1887. It is thought to derive from the fact that the soft rubber soles allowed the wearer to move quietly, or “sneak,” without being heard. Early versions of sneakers were produced by companies like Keds, which launched the first mass-produced sneaker in 1916. These shoes were primarily marketed for casual wear and sports, especially tennis and other court games.
In the UK and other parts of the world, the term “trainers” became more common, reflecting the shoes’ use in athletic training. Meanwhile, in Australia and some other regions, the term “runners” is used. These regional variations in terminology already hint at how the perception and use of sneakers can differ across cultures.
The Rise of Sneaker Culture
The 1980s marked a turning point for sneakers, particularly with the rise of basketball culture in the United States. The release of the Air Jordan line by Nike in 1985, featuring NBA superstar Michael Jordan, was a watershed moment. It was one of the first times that a shoe was marketed not just as athletic gear, but as a lifestyle product with cultural and emotional appeal. This era saw the birth of sneaker culture as we know it today.
As sneakers became more than just shoes—becoming symbols of identity, status, and community—the language around them began to evolve. Terms like “kicks,” “dunks,” and “sneaks” started to appear in everyday speech, particularly among younger generations and urban communities. The term “kicks” is particularly interesting, as it dates back to at least the 1800s but gained new life in the context of modern sneaker culture.
The Influence of Hip-Hop and Streetwear
Hip-hop culture played a pivotal role in transforming sneakers into a cultural icon. In the 1980s and 1990s, artists like Run-D.M.C. famously celebrated the Adidas Superstar in their music and style. Their 1986 song “My Adidas” not only became a cultural anthem but also helped solidify the brand’s place in sneaker history. This era saw the emergence of new slang terms that reflected the deep connection between sneakers and urban identity.
Terms like “grails” (short for “holy grail”) began to be used to describe the most coveted or hard-to-find sneakers. Similarly, “drops” referred to the limited releases of new models, which often led to long lines outside stores and online frenzy. “Flipping” became a common practice, where individuals would buy limited-edition sneakers and resell them for significantly higher prices on secondary markets like eBay or StockX.
This period also saw the rise of the term “sneakerhead,” which refers to someone who is deeply passionate about collecting and learning about sneakers. A sneakerhead might own dozens or even hundreds of pairs, and often follows sneaker news, collaborations, and release dates with the intensity of a stock market analyst.
The Fashion Industry’s Embrace of Sneakers
In the 2000s and 2010s, high fashion began to take notice of sneakers. Luxury brands like Gucci, Balenciaga, and Saint Laurent started incorporating sneakers into their collections, blurring the lines between athletic wear and high fashion. This shift led to the creation of new terms that reflected the fusion of streetwear and luxury.
“Fashion sneakers” became a commonly used term to describe high-end, stylish sneakers that were not necessarily intended for athletic activity. Similarly, “dad sneakers” emerged as a trend in the late 2010s, referring to chunky, oversized sneakers that were both functional and fashion-forward. Brands like Fila, Nike, and New Balance capitalized on this trend, and the term became a staple in fashion journalism and retail marketing.
The rise of collaborations between sneaker brands and designers or celebrities also introduced new ways of referring to sneakers. Terms like “collab” (short for collaboration) became popular, especially when discussing limited-edition sneakers made in partnership with artists like Pharrell Williams, Kanye West, or brands like Supreme.
The Digital Age and Sneaker Terminology
With the advent of the internet and social media, the way we talk about sneakers has changed dramatically. Online forums, YouTube channels, Instagram accounts, and TikTok videos have all contributed to the rapid spread of sneaker-related slang and terminology.
“Hypebeast” is a term that emerged in the 2000s, originally referring to people who followed trends and wore brands simply because they were popular. While it has sometimes been used pejoratively, it has also become a descriptor for a certain aesthetic and lifestyle centered around streetwear and sneakers.
“Cop” and “rock” are two other terms that have become widespread in sneaker culture. “Cop” means to purchase or acquire a pair of sneakers, while “rock” refers to wearing them. For example, someone might say, “I finally copped the Off-White x Nike Blazers” or “He’s always rocking the latest drops.”
Platforms like StockX and GOAT have also introduced new jargon into the sneaker lexicon. Terms like “resell value,” “market price,” and “instant cash” are now part of everyday conversations among sneaker enthusiasts. These platforms have turned sneakers into commodities, with prices fluctuating based on demand and rarity.
The Globalization of Sneaker Terminology
As sneaker culture has spread globally, different regions have developed their own unique slang and terms. In Japan, for example, sneakers are often referred to as “スニーカー” (sūnīkā), a direct transliteration of the English word, but there is also a strong appreciation for vintage and retro styles, which are sometimes called “vintage kicks” or “retro models.”
In South Korea, the term “신발” (shibal) is the general word for shoes, but “스니커즈” (seunikkeujeu) is used for sneakers. Korean sneaker culture is heavily influenced by Western trends, but it also has its own unique flavor, especially in the context of K-pop and Korean fashion.
In parts of Africa and the Middle East, sneakers are often referred to using the English term, but local slang and dialects have also incorporated words that reflect the cultural importance of certain brands or styles. For example, in Nigeria, sneakers are sometimes called “shoes” or “sport shoes,” but the most coveted pairs might be referred to as “the real ones” or “originals” to distinguish them from counterfeit versions.
The Future of Sneaker Terminology
As sneakers continue to evolve as both a product and a cultural symbol, the language we use to describe them will undoubtedly continue to change. With the rise of sustainable and eco-friendly footwear, terms like “eco-sneakers” or “green kicks” may become more common. Similarly, as technology advances, we may see the emergence of terms related to smart sneakers or augmented reality features.
Moreover, as sneaker culture becomes increasingly inclusive and diverse, the terminology will likely reflect a broader range of voices and perspectives. Terms that celebrate individuality, self-expression, and community may become more prominent in the years to come.
Conclusion
So, what do they call sneakers now? The answer is not a single word, but rather a dynamic and ever-changing array of terms that reflect the multifaceted nature of sneakers in today’s world. From “trainers” and “runners” to “grails” and “collabs,” the language of sneakers is as diverse and vibrant as the culture itself. Whether you’re a casual wearer, a dedicated sneakerhead, or somewhere in between, one thing is clear: sneakers are more than just shoes—they are a cultural phenomenon, and the way we talk about them continues to evolve right along with them.